There are some places that pull you back again and again—places so rich that one visit is never enough. For us, as we navigate a multi-year expedition of conscious exploration, Iceland is definitely one of those places. With expanded flight routes and technology, the possibilities for exploration feel endless, allowing us to travel to some of the farthest corners of the globe. But even with the calling to these untrodden paths, Iceland continues to surprise us with its seemingly endless offerings.
This 103,000 km² sub-Arctic Nordic island in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean is alive with biodiversity, both on land and at sea. From black and white sand beaches to wild lava fields and active volcanoes, from highlands steeped in ancient history to glaciers, fjords, and dramatic ocean landscapes—Iceland feels larger than life for such a small land mass. Around every corner lies a natural phenomenon, and it’s all connected by the famous Ring Road, a route that loops the entire island and opens up its greatest hits to travelers.
Most visitors tend to stick to the south, with their trips naturally starting in Reykjavík, Iceland’s capital. And it’s easy to see why this is the case. Iceland’s national parks, which are largely positioned to the south, showcase some of the world’s most spectacular waterfalls, pristine gorges, and glaciers that you can experience up close, unlike many other places covered in ice. For divers, there’s even the chance to scuba dive between two tectonic plates at the Silfra Fissure, straddling the continents of North America and Eurasia—an experience unlike most. But remaining solely in the south has its setbacks. To the north lies something equally extraordinary: the whales.
The waters surrounding Húsavík, also known as Skjálfandi Bay, is deemed the “whale watching capital of Europe.” And that’s because it’s home to 23 recorded species of whales, including both baleen and toothed varieties. Baleen whales, named for the comb-like plates in their mouths, use this unique adaptation to filter their food, primarily krill and small fish, by swallowing massive gulps of water. This ingenious feeding mechanism supports some of the largest animals on earth, such as the humpback whale, known for its intricate songs and fluke patterns that make individual identification possible.
Other giants include the fin whale, nicknamed the “greyhound of the sea” for its remarkable speed, and the sei whale, which feeds on zooplankton and other small fish. The blue whale, the largest creature to ever exist, also frequents these waters. Its heart alone weighs as much as a small car, and its blowhole is large enough for a child to fit through. Even the smaller minke whale makes its presence known, with a lifespan of up to 60 years and the ability to produce sounds exceeding 150 decibels.
The waters of Húsavík are also home to a diverse array of toothed whales, which simply means whales with teeth! Among them is the harbor porpoise, one of the smallest species, feeding on schooling fish like herring and crustaceans. Slightly larger but equally agile, the white-beaked dolphin is a common sight in Skjálfandi Bay, known for its playful demeanor and its impressive speed, reaching up to 45 km/h. Long-finned pilot whales, another member of the dolphin family, are deep-water specialists, feeding on squid and cephalopods. Unfortunately, they are also the species most frequently involved in mass strandings in Iceland.
Among the most iconic toothed whales in these waters is the orca, or killer whale, with its striking black-and-white appearance and incredible speed of up to 56 km/h. Their hunting powers span a wide variety of prey, from fish to sea mammals and have earned them the title of apex predator, often known for outpacing great white sharks around the world. The northern bottlenose whale, curious by nature, often approaches neighboring vessels, and is also known for its remarkable deep diving capabilities in order to hunt squid and bottom fish. But towering over them all is the sperm whale, the largest toothed whale, capable of diving over 2,200 meters to hunt its primary prey, giant squid. Immortalized in literature like Moby Dick, sperm whales are emblematic of how little we know about the marine world, and these elusive creatures have long been a symbol of the power and mystery of the sea.
Traditionally, the best time to see whales in Húsavík is during the peak season from May through early September, when the waters are most active. Over the years, the patterns of whale sightings in this region have changed significantly. In the early 2000s, Minke whales and dolphins dominated the bay, but by 2005, humpback whales began arriving in greater numbers. Today, these giants of the sea are a mainstay, with sightings of 20-30 humpbacks during the most recent season—a remarkable shift compared to previous decades. Blue whales have also joined the mix, migrating from the west to feed in the rich waters of Skjálfandi Bay, creating a congregation of marine life that’s unparalleled. While August can be unpredictable, as some whales are prone to dive deeper or temporarily leave the area, the overall numbers during the core season is what has quite literally put Húsavík on the global travel map.
On our first expedition to Iceland, we were introduced to Húsavík’s longest-running whale-watching operator, Gentle Giants. Since its founding in 2001, the company has been a pioneer in sustainable tourism, entirely locally owned and deeply tied to the region’s connection to the sea. Purchased by Stefán Guðmundsson in 2005, a Húsavík native from a long line of fishermen, the company has worked tirelessly to honor the area’s history while safeguarding its future. On our return to Iceland, we wanted to explore how Gentle Giants is able to bridge the gap between nature, conservation, and tourism.
Gentle Giants’ fleet reflects on their mission, combining tradition and innovation. Two Icelandic oak fishing boats, accommodating up to 70 passengers each, are complemented by four RIB speed boats designed for intimate excursions with just 12 passengers. The team, including passionate captains, guides, and marine biologists, is dedicated to promoting safe and respectful whale-watching practices. Among them is Sarah Arndt, a longstanding captain who welcomed us onto the water at dawn, just before a storm swept through the region.
Sarah’s journey to captaincy began in 2011, arriving in Húsavík with little travel experience and no knowledge of Iceland. Inspired by a pioneering female captain, Sarah overcame language barriers and cultural challenges to earn her nautical license in 2018, becoming the first foreign female captain in Húsavík’s whale-watching industry. For Sarah, patience and respect for wildlife are paramount, ensuring that encounters with whales are earned through care rather than disruption. Moments like a blue whale surfacing beneath a tiny RIB boat or a spy-hopping whale locking eyes with a passenger are treasured reminders of nature’s power and grace. Yet, Sarah also faces the challenge of managing tourist expectations, striving to educate visitors about the unpredictable realities of wildlife watching.
Working alongside her is Vittoria Sesani, whose fascination with marine life began in childhood with a love for dolphins. Initially aspiring to become a trainer, Vittoria’s passion evolved into marine biology, taking her to the Caribbean to study humpbacks in their breeding grounds. During the pandemic, she found her way to Iceland, where she observed the humpbacks’ feeding behaviors—offering a contrasting perspective to her work in tropical waters. Vittoria dedicates her time to tracking individual whales through photo ID catalogs, piecing together a larger narrative about their movements and behaviors across breeding and feeding grounds.
Vittoria also recognizes a growing disconnect between people and nature in today’s digital age. Many visitors arrive with unrealistic expectations, treating whale watching as a box to “check off” from their itinerary. Despite this, she finds hope in those who deeply connect with the experience, transforming their time on the water into a profound appreciation for the natural world.
As part of our journey, Sarah and Vittoria shared one of Gentle Giants’ best-kept secrets: Flatey Island. Nestled within Skjálfandi Bay, this unspoiled haven is a hub of biodiversity and the childhood home of Stefán’s father. Flatey Island—aptly named for its flat terrain—is 2.5 km long and 1.7 km wide, with its highest point just 22 meters above sea level. Once a thriving community, the island has been uninhabited since 1967, though its original homes now serve as summer residences. Flatey is a paradise for birdwatchers, hosting over 30 species during the breeding season, while its surrounding waters hum with whale activity. Excursions to the island provide a rare glimpse into a world where nature thrives undisturbed, offering visitors a deeply enriching and unforgettable experience.
As we explored Flatey Island, we learned about its rich history as well as Gentle Giants’ pivotal role in sustainable whale watching. As a founding member of the Icelandic Whale Watching Association (Ice Whale), Gentle Giants adhere to strict codes of conduct to ensure respectful and sustainable interactions with whales. Stefán, who serves on the board of Ice Whale, has been a vocal advocate for policies that position whale watching as a thriving, sustainable industry. These efforts are what have helped establish Húsavík as the whale-watching capital, drawing over 130,000 visitors annually.
Despite challenges like the 2010 volcanic eruption, the global pandemic in 2020, and increasing competition from other operators in the region, Gentle Giants has remained steadfast in its mission. Sarah and Vittoria emphasized that safeguarding the bay’s delicate ecosystem amidst rising tourism is not just a priority—it’s a necessity. Everyone on the bay understands the critical importance of preserving this abundant ecosystem to ensure its health and vitality continue. And this level of dedication has fostered local job creation, promoted social sustainability, and bolstered the town’s economy, solidifying whale watching as a cornerstone of Húsavík’s identity.
Iceland continues to draw us back with its unmatched connection to nature, the raw beauty of its landscapes, and the profound respect for the environment we see in the communities like Húsavík. Whether it’s the splendor of whales in their natural habitat, the untouched charm of Flatey Island, or learning from passionate locals, Iceland always offers just a little bit more. It’s places like this that remind us why mindful travel matters—and of what makes a place worth coming back to again and again.
