Monterey is often celebrated as one of California’s top destinations for travelers, and for good reason. The town offers a charming mix of attractions like the world-class Monterey Bay Aquarium, Old Fisherman’s Wharf, Pebble Beach, and the iconic 17-Mile Drive. For nature lovers, Monterey is a dream come true. However, the immense effort behind the scenes to preserve both its natural and developed landscapes is something that cannot go unnoticed. Without the tireless efforts of the many individuals and organizations working to maintain Monterey’s natural beauty, its status as an ecological hotspot in the state might not be what it is today.
Beyond its stunning visuals, Monterey Bay is home to ecosystems that are crucial to both the local marine life and the health of our planet. For those who venture underwater, the coastal regions of Monterey reveal some of the world’s most breathtaking environments that feel otherworldly. The Edges of Earth expedition has taken our team of three scuba diving all over the globe—from tropical, temperate, salt and freshwaters. Because of this, we can confidently say that Monterey’s underwater scenes are truly exceptional, thanks largely to Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary (MBNMS) and its long-standing partners throughout the region.
The MBNMS serves as a hub for experts in science, conservation, community development, and education to protect Monterey’s vast oceanic stretch—276 miles along the coast and 6,094 square statute miles of ocean, extending from California’s Marin to Cambria townships. This sanctuary includes a nearshore underwater canyon plunging nearly two miles deep, alongside kelp forests and rocky intertidal zones with abundant marine life—having even earned it the nickname, “Serengeti of the Sea.” While the area is open for recreational use, activities like oil drilling, ocean dumping, and seabed mining are strictly prohibited.
Through countless dives along this remarkable coastline, we recognized that Monterey Bay is one of the most dynamic marine environments in the USA. Yet, one specific area within the sanctuary particularly piqued our interest: Elkhorn Slough. Despite its critical importance, Elkhorn Slough doesn’t receive as much celebration as we think it deserves. This rare coastal wetland, composed of ocean-fed waterways, mudflats, and marshes, plays a crucial role in California’s ecological history and ongoing conservation efforts, that many locals don’t even know about!
The slough is home to 340 bird species, harbor seals, and a recovered sea otter population—a species nearly driven to extinction during the fur trade era. Since their recovery began in the 1980s, sea otters have played a critical role in maintaining the balance of this unique ecosystem, marking a true conservation success story for California. Not to mention, as one of the largest remaining tidal salt marshes in the state, the slough is essential for studying shorebirds and fish, providing invaluable insights into the complex ecosystems that flourish here.
Beyond its role in research, this place is also a prime example of what we like to call conscious exploration—a concept that emphasizes traveling not only for personal enjoyment, but with the intent to give back. This can mean supporting local economies, choosing sustainable operators, and directing your travel funds towards initiatives that help preserve these natural spaces and places. To fully embrace this concept, we ventured into the slough and met with someone who’s been consciously exploring throughout his entire career: Dean Peterson, the Senior Naturalist Guide at Blue Water Ventures and a Marine Naturalist with the MBNMS Team OCEAN program.
Team OCEAN deploys trained volunteer naturalists in sanctuary kayaks to educate visitors and protect sensitive marine wildlife, like sea otters and harbor seals, from disturbance. Since 2000, the program has engaged thousands of ocean users, fostering environmental stewardship and promoting respectful wildlife viewing. Dean, and a suite of volunteers, reinforce educational guidelines for interacting with wildlife while paddling on Elkhorn Slough, as well as Moss Landing and Cannery Row in Monterey.
Dean was to lead us on a kayak expedition through the slough, offering an up-close view of the remarkable increase in sea otters while providing what he fondly calls “educational adventures.” This was going to be an immersive lesson in how the slough functions, how to identify the variety of species that inhabit it, and how to stay active outdoors without disrupting the delicate balance of nature. In an era where social media often drives people to interact with wildlife irresponsibly for likes, it was clear off the bat that Dean was committed to showing his visitors how to have a meaningful, respectful experience, and one without a phone in hand.
One thing you should know about Dean: despite the seriousness of his work in monitoring the slough, he uniquely shows his lighter side through his electric blue dyed hair. What started as a gesture of levity during the harsh times of the pandemic quickly became his signature look. As a naturalist, Dean seamlessly blends deep environmental knowledge with a warm, inviting personality that resonates with people from all walks of life. He has a remarkable ability to gently guide others in the wild, helping them understand their role in preserving the environment and what conscious exploration is really all about.
Arriving at North Harbor, we were outfitted by the Monterey Bay Kayaks team, who have worked closely with MBNMS for years. This is where we received another briefing on how to respectfully navigate the slough, and were informed that it is also protected as NOAA’s National Estuarine Research Reserve (as well as being part of the MBNMS), designated in 1979 to safeguard California’s endangered species and threatened habitats.
This was also where we met another legend in Monterey’s parts—Lisa Uttal. She is the Outreach and Media Coordinator with the sanctuary who collaborates with Team OCEAN staff like Dean. With her extensive background in marine research and education, Lisa has spent her career developing science-based programs, interactive exhibits, and films that aim to instill ocean stewardship through behavior change. Over the last 30 years, Lisa has become a leading voice in this community, seamlessly bridging the gap between scientific research and education.
Somehow managing to get the two best possible guides out on the water with us, we paddled through the system while both listening to their endless stories and taking in the sights. We were out for nearly two and a half hours and counted close to 25 otters—a small fraction of the 120+ that live here. In fact, this is the only estuary that is heavily colonized by the Southern sea otter. Recognizing the importance of this, the reserve now enlists volunteers to regularly monitor otter populations, activities, and locations within the slough. The data collected offers valuable insights into otter behavior, helping researchers understand factors such as population dynamics, movement patterns, and the overall health of the ecosystem.
Dean explained that while sea otters may look adorable with their fluffy fur and big eyes, they are far from friendly. Known for their aggressive behavior, especially when feeling threatened, sea otters (particularly males) are highly territorial and will fiercely defend their space. With sharp teeth and strong jaws, they can deliver a painful bite if provoked. Even among themselves, their social interactions can be rough, with males often displaying aggression during mating. To avoid disturbing them, Dean advised us to keep a safe distance. If an otter looks at you, raises its head, or darts away, you’ve disturbed it. He also warned us about the consequences of getting too close—like the unfortunate person who suffered 40 puncture wounds from a sea otter attack in California last year!
As we paddled through the slough, Dean shared that, despite his extensive travels over the years exploring other corners of the world, he finds himself consistently eager to return right here. “I’ve kayaked in so many places, each with its own unique beauty and wonder,” Dean shared as we drifted down the slough in our fun-colored kayaks. “From being hassled by a walrus in Norway to encountering a leopard seal in Antarctica or collecting green tip mussels for dinner in New Zealand, I’ve enjoyed my time near and on the water. But when all is said and done, my first desire is to get out on my home waters. I’m blessed to live in such a beautiful part of the world and I want the chance to share it with everyone now, and in the future.”
This experience was a powerful reminder that while we love exploring the globe, there’s something truly special about discovering and appreciating what’s in your own backyard. It’s a message MBNMS promotes through their “Get Into Your Sanctuary” program, which Lisa has championed throughout her career. “Recreating in the sanctuary—like kayaking, surfing, scuba diving, sailing, and fishing—are some of the best ways to enjoy this ecosystem. But we hope that everyone who engages with wildlife does so in the most sustainable and responsible way,” Lisa explained. “This is what Get Into Your Sanctuary is all about.” As she shared how the program has evolved over the years, her passion for the sanctuary was undeniable. Even after three decades of dedication, she spoke with the enthusiasm of someone who had just begun their dream job. Her energy was contagious, leaving us wishing MBNMS wasn’t just a stop on our expedition, but a place we could call home.
When we asked her what advice she had for visitors, she stressed the importance of responsible wildlife viewing, similar to Dean. But she also left us with one of those profound notes that resonated a little deeper than most: “Remember, when you visit a place like this, there are countless people who have dedicated their careers to putting these protections in place. It’s not just for today, but for long after we’re gone, so the next generation of ocean lovers will have a place they can enjoy beyond a brief visit or transient experience. This also can be a place people seek out as their base, as there’s something here worth exploring and being proud to call home every day.”
Whether you’re a Monterey local, a Californian, or just passing through, a visit to the slough is a must. If you venture out on the water, be sure to heed the advice of those who have dedicated their lives to protecting it. The beauty of this place will captivate you, and while the temptation to snap a close-up of a sea otter may be strong, the wildlife guidelines exist for a reason. As travelers, it’s our duty not only to explore the world but to respect the locals—both human and animal—and learn from them. Our greatest responsibility is to ensure that our interactions with wildlife are respectful, sustainable, and protective of the fragile ecosystems we’re fortunate enough to experience in our lifetime.
