An Expedition to East Africa
It’s easy to find stunning photos of Kenya and Tanzania—the vast landscapes, iconic wildlife, and vibrant cultures. But capturing what it really feels like to travel here, especially on an expedition, is another story. Being the birthplace of humankind, there’s something so evocative and captivating about this place, which makes it hard to do justice in brief explanation. The only way to begin is by saying this: there’s nowhere quite like East Africa.
We spent a month on safari traveling around the two countries, with a purpose different than that of first-time safari goers. This wasn’t a vacation and we weren’t there to escape. Instead, we were on a mission to uncover the heart and soul of East Africa—to understand its essence amidst the growing challenges of climate change. While we cherished those relaxing moments when the sun was split by the horizon at golden hour, we were equally immersed in late-nights spent documenting what happened that day out in the bush. And as each day passed, we were brought closer to understanding the less obvious and celebrated reasons for this place’s captivating nature.
At first glance, you might think East Africa’s magic lies solely in its wildlife, landscapes, or warm hospitality. But it’s more than that. It’s how these elements come together in a way that feels almost symbiotic, a harmonious dance between nature and culture, tradition and progress. Yet, this balance isn’t everywhere. Planning this leg of our expedition taught us that East Africa isn’t a “one-size-fits-all” experience. It’s a region marked by harsh contrasts: breathtaking beauty with stark hardships, profound peacefulness with rampant corruption. To truly experience East Africa, you need to align yourself with the right people. And for us that meant people who shared our values and a vision for a better future.
We met with the teams behind the Elewana Collection, an eco-tourism operator, and Land & Life Foundation, their charity arm, to show us their version of East Africa. To show us how the region’s challenges are being met with resilience, hope and tangible solutions. The 16 unique lodges and camps that stretch all over the two countries blend seamlessly with the work of the foundation, focused on environmental conservation and community development. Together, they’re setting a new standard for sustainable and regenerative tourism, creating ripple effects that extend far beyond the boundaries of their properties.
The Kenya Chapter
Our journey through Kenya was a dive into three distinct regions, each offering different perspectives on the intersection of conservation and community. From the untamed beauty of Meru National Park to the pioneering efforts at Loisaba Conservancy, and finally to the iconic plains of the Masai Mara, our trek was designed to explore the heterogeneous ways this country is shielding its natural and cultural heritage.
We started off at Meru National Park, often overshadowed by more famous destinations. Staying at Elsa’s Kopje, we walked in the footsteps of George and Joy Adamson, the legendary conservationists who raised orphaned lions and reintroduced them to the wild. Their groundbreaking work in the mid-20th century immortalized the story of Elsa the lioness from the feature film, Born Free, and set the stage for modern wildlife conservation in Africa. Today, the park is a nod to their legacy and one of the many reasons why this shouldn’t be a second choice on anyone’s safari.
We marveled at the thriving lion prides, direct descendants of Elsa herself, and saw firsthand the vital work of the Born Free Foundation, which continues to monitor and protect these creatures today. Each time we ventured out in an offroad vehicle, it felt as though the wilderness opened its arms to us, revealing over 60 species by the end of our stay. Yet, what struck us even more was the way conservation intertwined with the community here. For example, Elsa Kopje and the Land & Life Foundation are consistently supporting the Ura Gate Primary School, which provides local children with access to education and opportunities that would otherwise remain out of reach.
A seven-hour drive brought us to Loisaba Conservancy in Laikipia County, where the lines between wildlife preservation and human empowerment blur in the most weighty ways. Staying at Loisaba Tented Camp, we explored a wide-reaching space that is both a sanctuary for wildlife and a lifeline for the surrounding community. The conservancy’s black rhino program, in partnership with Kenya Wildlife Services and The Nature Conservancy, marks a monumental achievement in conservation. After decades of poaching, 25 black rhinos now roam freely here—yet another nod to years of collaborative effort.
While the wildlife encounters were up-close-and-personal, with daily run-ins with cheetahs, leopards, and the rest of the Big Five, the community work hit harder. We met Veronica Rose Lemiliko, a nurse and midwife serving 500–600 patients a month in Ewaso Village. Her dispensary provides essential healthcare to the surrounding community, as the next facility is 240 kilometers away. Thanks to the Conservancy’s support, Veronica was able to attend school and now serves as a lifeline for those who would have endured their illnesses either in silence, without any available access to critical care.
Then we met the Chui Mamas: artisans and advocates, using skills like beadwork, tailoring, and farming to create sustainable livelihoods while addressing systemic challenges facing women, such as poverty, hunger, and gender-based violence. At their newly built community center and their gathering place, also known as a cultural boma, we were welcomed into their world. We were shown their sustainable farming practices, their future storefronts and we were introduced to their traditional dances. We hadn’t seen a blend of modernity and heritage like this yet in Africa, showing a level of progressive thinking fueled by the longstanding relationship between Elewana, Land & Life and Loisaba.
Our final stop was the legendary Masai Mara, where we stayed at the Elephant Pepper Camp and collaborated with the Mara North Conservancy. This is what safari dreams are made of—endless plains moving with wildlife, and the Maasai culture woven into every aspect of an experience here. Elephant Pepper, designed as a classic safari camp, gave us panoramic views of the plains and eco-friendly practices in even the smallest detail. This ethos, shared across all the properties we visited, embodies the Land & Life Foundation’s core mission: to create tourism offerings that are as sustainable as they are remarkable.
On every drive to and from the property, it became the norm to encounter herds of elephants, often accompanied by their newborns, peacefully navigating the plains and munching on the pepper plants that inspired the camp’s name. Meanwhile, the Mara North Conservancy proved to be another powerful example of community-driven conservation. This partnership between over 800 Maasai landowners and tourism operators transforms visitor lease fees into stable incomes for local families. By integrating land use, the conservancy strikes a remarkable balance, allowing the Maasai’s prized livestock and the region’s abundant wildlife to coexist in harmony—which is what “Elewana” means in Swahili.
The Tanzania Chapter
Leaving Kenya behind wasn’t easy. After connecting so intensely with the wilderness guides, conservancy teams, the communities we visited—and of course the charismatic Chui Mamas—it was hard to imagine how our next chapter could beat what we’d just experienced. Yet, as our bush flight descended into Tanzania, the sight of elephants roaming the plains below filled us with a sense of anticipation. Tanzania would be a world of its own, not better or worse than time in Kenya, but just entirely different.
This chapter started in Arusha, often referred to as the gateway to Tanzania’s safari circuit. Nestled at the base of Mount Meru, a towering volcano, Arusha also serves as a starting point for treks to Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa’s highest peak. The city was alive with a blend of backpackers, safari-goers, and business travelers, reflecting its role as a crossroads of adventure and commerce. Staying at Arusha Coffee Lodge, we found respite in the rich aromas of locally grown coffee and the quiet luxury of the eco-focused property. But the highlight was Shanga, a Land & Life Foundation initiative located on the lodge grounds. Shanga employs people with disabilities to transform discarded materials into exquisite, handcrafted products, demonstrating the power of inclusion and environmental stewardship.
Watching artisans repurpose a full ton of glass each month—sourced from lodges across Tanzania’s most famous parks—into vibrant glassware, textiles, and art was uplifting, to say the least. And hearing the personal accounts of the disabled staff and how this effort changed their lives—from providing prosthetic legs to amputees, to offering steady income to their workers—brought the mission of Shanga into even sharper focus. Their work is about restoring dignity, fostering independence, and proving that meaningful change can arise from even the simplest acts of kindness and resourcefulness. Shanga showed us that when communities prioritize inclusion and sustainability, they can create impacts that extend far beyond the walls of any workshop.
After a few days of grounding ourselves in Arusha, we headed to Tarangire National Park and its neighboring Randilen Wildlife Management Area (WMA). At Tarangire Treetops lodge, we stayed in treehouses built around majestic baobab trees, their ancient trunks rising like sentinels of the past. The lodge’s central watering hole was a magnet for wildlife, including zebras, wildebeests, and large herds of elephants, making leaving the property quite challenging!
We spent time with the team behind the WMA, a 312-square-kilometer buffer zone for Tarangire National Park that protects critical wildlife corridors while fostering coexistence between creatures and the Maasai communities. By embracing what they call “photogenic tourism” as a primary activity, Randilen generates revenue to support education, healthcare, and infrastructure projects, creating meaningful benefits for the local population. Initiatives like rotational grazing and conservation zones maintain a delicate balance between livestock and wildlife, while creative solutions like “chili bombs” and torchlights help deter the mass herds of elephants from encroaching on farms.
Our final stop was Serengeti National Park, where the legendary landscapes stretched endlessly before us, embodying the raw beauty of the country as a whole. Staying at Serengeti Pioneer Camp felt like stepping back in time to the origins of safari, which means “journey,” in Swahili. The property managed to capture the essence of a bygone era while still providing more modern comforts. Here, we met Elewana’s first woman wilderness guide, a pioneer in a traditionally male-dominated field, who shared how she’s here to break barriers. As we explored the Moru Kopjes and saline lakes, the Serengeti’s grandeur came into the light—hippos sparring in creeks, cheetahs teaching their cubs to hunt, flamingos wading gracefully, and of course, the spectacle of the Great Migration.
The Serengeti is considered a vital stronghold for biodiversity and climate stability. Yet, the challenges it faces are monumental. The teams working on the ground told us about the disruptions caused by climate change, with erratic rainfall altering the Great Migration patterns and invasive plant species threatening native vegetation. Combined with human development and increasing competition for resources, these pressures are particularly amplified here. When the wildebeest and zebras linger instead of making their traditional trek to the Maasai Mara, it disrupts not only the rhythm of the migration but the entire balance of this delicate Tanzanian world.
The Common Thread
Even though we had vastly different experiences at every location we visited, we asked the same question: “So what about climate change?” And the answer? Strikingly consistent. Across East Africa, the work to preserve biodiversity, manage ecosystems, and build resilient, self-sufficient communities is seen as fundamental to weathering the growing impacts of a changing climate. While drought, famine, and extreme weather were visible realities everywhere we went, they were met with an inspiring level of awareness and action.
Everyone we spoke to addressed the topic with candor, acknowledging the challenges and emphasizing the urgency of tackling them. Their nature-based and community-focused programs are their proactive solutions designed to protect what’s most valuable to them. In a world where conversations about climate resilience have the tendency of being avoided, the people we met in East Africa embraced them with open arms. From safeguarding wildlife corridors to empowering women’s groups to reclaim land and livelihoods, the initiatives we witnessed evinced an understanding that climate change is no longer a far off threat—it is right here, right now.
Through this month-long safari, we fell in love—with the place, its people. The endless space with up-close wildlife encounters at every turn. The wilderness guides, conservationists, educators, and artisans were far more than facilitators of our experiences. They were visionaries, bringing hope and unrelenting determination to protect what defines this region. They didn’t shy away from the hard truths, and in their openness, they showed us the heart and soul of East Africa.
What we uncovered wasn’t just the unparalleled beauty of the landscapes or the astonishing diversity of its ecosystems so often portrayed. It was the unbreakable bond between this land and the people who call it home. This connection transforms a journey here into something utterly personal—a call to engage, to reflect, and to become part of a story far larger than oneself. It weaves YOUR identity into the narrative of a region at the forefront of change, where progress is built on the backs of those who tirelessly protect both people and place. These eye-opening, life-changing moments we experienced are all the reasons why we must travel consciously. To honor, support, and ensure the legacy of places so unique prevail long after we are gone.
